Turkish food arrives in the Pill Hill neighborhood of Brookline


The comeback story Yesim Otsuz and her husband, Serkan, along with their friend, Selim Gurel, opened Dolma in mid-March after a year of planning. Prior to that, Yesim Otsuz had his own restaurant business, Yesim’s Kitchen; Gurel owned Angora Cafe near Boston University and Angora Ice in Chestnut Hill. The storefront had been vacated by the Japanese restaurant Toichi Ichiban.

What to eat One of the more interesting dishes on the menu is the Manti, which are tiny, hand-made dumplings filled with minced meat served with a dollop of yogurt and a pinch of paprika and red pepper. Mantis are so small that the minced meat inside is the size of a green pea. Yesim dumplings are tasty and beautiful. The Dolma here are made with plump and colorful peppers, stuffed with ground beef and rice, and surprisingly light. Stuffed grape leaves (called Sarma) are also on the menu.

Manti à Dolma Mediterranean cuisine.Aram Boghosian for the Boston Globe

The famous Turkish Red Lentil Soup is a cup you can just keep sipping, not thick as some are, and a pretty pink color from the little legumes. Yesim’s homemade noodles are short sticks, as if she made big spaghetti and cut them into small pieces. The noodles are soft and delicious. On the dessert menu, a splendid Rice Pudding with milk with a caramelized top, like a crème brûlée, and another most unusual sweet: Noah’s Pudding (called Asure), an old Turkish recipe that combines cereals, rice, beans, peas. chickpeas, nuts. , raisins, apricots and more.

What to drink Turkish coffee, yogurt drink (Ayran), soft drinks.

Noah's Pudding (Asure) with Turkish Coffee in Dolma.
Noah’s Pudding (Asure) with Turkish Coffee in Dolma.Aram Boghosian for the Boston Globe

Takeaway meals You can see the work that goes into this food (those tiny Manti!) And the thoughtful way it’s presented. The trio of owners are very proud of their Turkish heritage, their specialties and their ingredients (some are for sale here). The cafe seats eight with distancing rules in place and they hope permits will be issued for outdoor tables. It is a happy place with real hospitality. 5, rue Kendall, Brookline, 617-487-5852, www.dolmaboston.com

Sheryl Julian can be reached at [email protected] Follow her on Twitter @sheryljulian.


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